Isla de Coiba, the largest island in Panama can be found on the south-western coast in the Pacific Ocean
“Yeah, I wan’t sure if you guys would show up or not, I had my bags packed and ready to go on trip myself” Michael says as we jump in his truck this morning, on our way to the beach to load up the boat.
Oops. Sorry about that, Michael. After a frustrating night in Santiago dealing with internet and last minute work stuff, Jaime and I returned to Santa Catalina around midnight, nothing yet packed, and only a few hours of sleep banked before trip.
Jaime and I were introduced to our 3 guests, and loaded in the boat that would take us and our gear (including the two TRAK kayaks in their travel bags) an hour and a half away to Isla de Coiba.
Jaime and I were introduced to our 3 guests, and loaded in the boat that would take us and our gear (including the two TRAK kayaks in their travel bags) an hour and a half away to Isla de Coiba.
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| Unloading bags and bags of food for the personal portion of our trip |
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| At nearly 70lbs, Jaime easily lifts the TRAK kayaks into the boat! |
Coiba is an island of volcanic origins, whose western portion was formed in the center of the Pacific Ocean, in the “Galapagos Hotspot” approximately 70 million years ago
(thus earning it the nickname ‘The Galapagos of Panama’).
Once in its current location, at least 50 million years ago new volcanic eruptions configured the northern and eastern sides of the island while more recently, marine sedimentation has created the island’s southern region. Towards the end of the Ice Age about 12,000 years ago the islands were united with the mainland when the sea levels lowered, allowing for the same flora and fauna as on the mainland. However, as temperatures and sea levels rose, once again the island was separated from the mainland and it was during this era of isolation that many of the species evolved to form new species and subspecies including birds, plants, and mammals now endemic to the island.
Once in its current location, at least 50 million years ago new volcanic eruptions configured the northern and eastern sides of the island while more recently, marine sedimentation has created the island’s southern region. Towards the end of the Ice Age about 12,000 years ago the islands were united with the mainland when the sea levels lowered, allowing for the same flora and fauna as on the mainland. However, as temperatures and sea levels rose, once again the island was separated from the mainland and it was during this era of isolation that many of the species evolved to form new species and subspecies including birds, plants, and mammals now endemic to the island.
Coiba Island National Park is comprised of 10 major islands and 28 smaller islets totaling over 430,000 acres of forests, beaches, rivers, mangroves and coral reefs, with Coiba being the biggest island. Sitting about 22 km off the coast at 124,320 acres, Coiba is also the largest uninhabited tropical forested island in Central America. I know I’m in for a treat, but how big of a treat is far beyond my comprehension at this point.
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| Guests checking out the birds of Coiba |
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| Cruise ships have recently been granted access to visit the island as well |
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| One of the guests tries out the TRAK kayak at the ANAM station on our last day...he liked it! |
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| The cruise ship sets sail from Coiba... |
However, I feel like my role is that of being both a guest and a guide on this trip. Because Jaime has worked as a guide for so many years, he’s got his routine down pat and I’m simply here to watch and learn. I enjoy learning from someone who is personable rather than putting on a persona, being open and honest with his guests. It’s not about hiding who you are in favour of playing the role of ‘guide’ but about being yourself and relating to people. He knows how to handle any questions thrown at him, has a wealth of knowledge (“Jaime what fish/bird/plant/tree is that? What is coral anyway? Is this water safe to drink? Why is the ocean blue?"), is thorough and clear when teaching, and is efficient in how he moves. He is in his element, and taking charge. Meanwhile I’m trying to figure out where ‘me-time’ is when I’m so busy helping to get dinner going before it gets too dark and all I want to do is change out of my wet board shorts into dry pants to keep the bugs away. Jaime seems to take no notice of the fact he hasn’t washed any of the salt water off him yet either...little do I realize this is only the beginning of our boy-girl differences in how we camp - more on that in the coming days as we continue on our own portion of the trip!
By our second day not only am I quite sunburnt but I’m grumpy from a conversation with Jaime over my apparent big mouth - seems we have different views of sharing information. The ANAM (Autoridad Nacional del Ambiente) is responsible for the Park's operative matters as well as enforcement of environmental laws and regulations that deal with the protected areas.
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| All smiles after a much needed shower |
While I’m excitedly talking to a couple staff around the ANAM Ranger Station about our solo trip around the island, a naturalist who has worked for years on Coiba who spoke perfect english and spanish tried translating for me what the head ranger was saying to me one evening as I cooked dinner. Apparently they were changing their tune about letting Jaime and I camp around the island, and we were either a) not allowed to do it at all or b) we would have to pay about $10 each night.
I say ‘either’ because so far in planning this trip, we’d have someone say one thing, and the next minute another guy would say something different - Jaime and I were very perplexed by it all, while I was quick to get heated about it, frustrated at the lack of consistency of permission and communication - starting to think everyone was simply giving opinion rather than fact and we weren't yet sure how to differentiate.
Consequently, Jaime was suggesting I keep my mouth shut and be more careful about who I talk to. I wasn’t ok with being secretive about things, about having to watch my back about who I talk to...but in a country where supposedly money talks, where opinions change with the passing hour, unsure of whose side people were on, I got my back up and thought “Fine! I just won’t talk at all anymore. I’m not into playing these games! Jaime, you deal with it then, apparently I’m too hot headed to have patience for this” Silently brooding, grumpy, pensive about it all. Is it all a game you have to play? Is that the way I want to be, treating people like they could be secretive spies and not being open about what I want or what I’m doing? (Back to that notion of being yourself and relating to people) I guess I just don’t know how to play this game very well.
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Photos and edits courtesy of Jaime Sharp and Allie Carroll
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